If your line isn’t staying vertical, don’t be afraid to go heavier with your jig. It really does change how the jig performs down there.
When I’m fishing the Hauraki Gulf in around 50m of water, I usually start with something between 150g and 200g. That gets me close most days, but if the line won’t sit vertical, that’s my cue to change something. I’ll add weight bit by bit until it settles back into that vertical position. Some days I end up needing as much as 300g to get there.
The reason this matters comes down to how slow pitch jigging actually works. It’s a vertical technique, built around slow, controlled movement. Once your line drifts off vertical, you lose control of the jig, and that changes how it moves in the water, which matters a lot if you’re trying to get a fish to bite.
That’s why it’s worth having at least three different jig weights on hand. It gives you room to try a few options and figure out what’s actually working for the day.
There’s more than just weight in play though. Line thickness, jig shape, hook size, and how fast you’re drifting all affect the angle of your line once it’s down. A sea anchor or trolling motor can help slow your drift if that’s what’s pulling you off vertical.
Line choice makes a difference too. As a rule, go as thin as you can get away with without risking a break off. For slow pitch jigging in 50m, I usually run PE1.5, about 0.209mm thick, paired with a 30lb fluorocarbon leader around 0.470mm. Thinner line means less drag, and less drag means it’s easier to hold that vertical line.
At the end of the day, fishing comes down to reading the conditions just as much as knowing the technique. Keep adjusting, keep testing, and you’ll find what works for you. Happy fishing.
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