The assist hooks you choose can make a real difference to how many fish you actually land. Whether you’re after kingfish, bluefin tuna, or snapper, getting the assist hook setup right matters just as much as the jig itself. With single assist, twin assist, top sets, and bottom sets all on offer, it’s not always obvious which configuration suits which style of fishing. This guide breaks down the basics so you know when and why to use each one.
What are assist hooks
Assist hooks are single or paired hooks attached to a metal jig by a short length of cord, usually a high strength material like Kevlar. Unlike a hook rigged straight to the jig, an assist hook hangs off that cord, which gives it room to move independently. That freedom of movement is what improves hook up rates, since the hook can react naturally as the jig moves through the water.
Single assist versus twin assist
A single assist hook setup has one hook attached to the jig, usually at the top eye. It’s a common choice for mechanical jigging, particularly for strong species like kingfish, since a single hook with a heavier cord holds up well against a big fish without needing much extra movement to be effective.
A twin assist setup uses two hooks, either both at the top or split between the top and bottom of the jig, usually rigged on softer, more flexible cord. This setup suits slow pitch jigging well, where fish tend to strike as the jig flutters down on the fall. Having two hooks gives you a better chance of a solid hook up in that style of fishing.
Top only versus top and bottom configurations
A top only setup puts the hooks right at the head of the jig, where fish most often strike. In mechanical jigging, the jig moves vertically through the water and the top consistently acts as the head, so a top only configuration makes sense there, especially when you’re targeting kingfish.
In slow pitch and deepwater jigging, the jig falls more horizontally, mimicking a struggling baitfish, and a fish can hit it from either end depending on how it’s falling at that moment. That’s why running hooks at both the top and bottom improves your hook up rate in this style, since the bottom hooks catch fish that strike the body or tail rather than the head. It also helps control how the jig flutters on the drop, which makes it work better for slow pitch jigging generally.
Matching the configuration to your style
A top only setup with a single assist hook suits mechanical jigging. A top only setup with twin assist hooks works well for micro jigging, super light jigging, and shore jigging. A top and bottom setup with twin assist hooks is the better choice for slow pitch and deepwater jigging.
Understanding these setups, and knowing which one fits which style, puts you in a better position to hook up more often out on the water.
I’ll cover exactly how I rig the jig to the leader in a future post, with photos showing the setup up close.
FYI, see the zoom-up photo below on how I rig the jig to the leader. We can cover this topic in a future post.
Should the leader (line) be attached to the solid ring instead off
how the picture shows?
No, you don’t have to. What we’re showing here is a modern way of rigging assist hooks and the leader to the jig. If you tie your leader directly to the solid ring (of the assist cord), you’ll lose flexibility. That setup works well for mechanical jigging, as the hook doesn’t need to move freely. But if you rig it our way, the hook or hooks move more freely, which works perfectly for slow pitch jigs. Plus, you can change hooks and jigs without cutting the leader. As long as you use a good-quality split ring, you won’t have any issues—most well-known brands supply strong split rings these days.